Professor in Fashion Technologies
Academic and professional qualifications
I joined the Department of Clothing Design and Technology at Manchester Metropolitan University in 1979 (now metamorphosed into the Manchester Fashion Institute). I have pursued a number of research interests related to responsive manufacturing (arising from my own PhD), teamworking, systems modelling and new product development. These projects were funded by EPSRC and the DTI.
During 2000-2004, I managed the North West Advanced Apparel Systems Centre, a European-funded initiative to support clothing and textile companies in North-West England. This involved supporting 60 companies with knowledge-intensive projects designed to safeguard or increase employment and sales. This has brought me into contact with a wide range of companies representing all activities in the supply chain. A particular interest in innovation has led to the support of textile digital printing technologies by providing training courses and sponsoring small projects. A DTI-funded project concerned with digital printing and mass customisation in the interior textiles sector involving three Rochdale companies and MMU was completed in January 2004.
From 2006-2008, I completed work for the EU Framework 6 project: “Fashion 2 Future”. This was a technology transfer project involving 38 partners with the aim of building links throughout Europe.
I was lead academic for a KTP project (Knowledge Transfer Partnership – completed 2010) concerned with protective headwear. This project was the stimulus for more recent research into apparel that protects against impacts.
from June 2015-November 2018, I am involved in the EU-funded project: Resyntex. This is a Circular Economy initiative to turn the clothing and textiles life cycle from linear to circular. I am the Leader of WP2 which is concerned mainly with consumer behaviour issues.
My current research interests are in new product development, PPE, sustainability issues affecting apparel (notably the EU-funded project Resyntex), mobile e-commerce, wearable technologies and textile digital printing.
My background is in the physical sciences and my involvement with the Apparel industry began when I sought to analyse industrial problems from the physicist's perspective (1968-1976, Hatra, Nottingham). This led to employment within the industry, initially as a technologist and then as a manager (1976-1979, Courtaulds Ltd., Coventry). These experiences were invaluable when I joined Higher Education.
Postgraduate research supervision
I have supervised 16 completed PhD’s and am currently supervising 4 more. I have acted as referee for 9 different journals. I have examined 19 PhD’s and 6 Master’s theses.
Projects and initiatives
A new circular economy concept: from textile waste towards chemical and energy industry feedstock – RESYNTEX (The university is a partner in an EU-funded project in the Horizon 2020 programme). The RESYNTEX project is structured around the following process steps:
New ways of logistics for textile waste collection. Collection rate improvement will be sought as a positive impact. Improving the collection rate will also ensure a steady waste stream towards recycling companies and as a consequence a more competitive recycling process (economies of scale).
An efficient, smart and automatic macro separation of textile waste (uni-component textiles and blends).
A chemical and biotechnological treatment with a cascading of separation processes for transformation of textile components into:
- Proteins hydrolisate (amino-acids) from wool/silk.
- Cellulose in solution from cotton.
- Polyamide building blocks from PA.
- Polyester building blocks (terephtalic acid, ethylene glycol) from PET.
- This value added recovered ingredients will be subsequently valorised in the chemical/biotechnological/pulp & paper/ or energy industry according to their interest for the higher value feedstock (e.g. cellulose to ethanol conversion or other chemicals, polyamide and polyester building blocks to products of higher value). Different applications will be tested in a way to optimise the circular economy and a business model for a higher profit potential.
- Any residual waste will be transformed by a novel technique of microwave pyrolysis to biofuel.
A pilot plant (0.5 t) will be designed and constructed based on the results of the fibre transformation processes. The results obtained for the fibre component transformation will be assessed at a pilot scale (0.5 t). A scaled-up pilot facility (10 t) will be constructed and tested. A realistic scenario of circular economy including collection system, macro-separation, fibre component transformation and development of high value feedstock for chemical/biotechnological/pulp & paper/ or energy industry chemical will be demonstrated to validate the entire process efficiency, financial viability and competitiveness.
Images reated to the H2020 project: Resyntex
Evaluation of the protection capabilities of materials
This project is concerned with the ability of different materials to absorb energy and reduce the damage to the human body cased by mechanical impacts. The science of impact protection is the focus of interest: what factors are important for protection? Different materials, thicknesses and configurations are considered, allowing a quantifiable measure of a material’s protective performance.
Evaluation of the protection capabilities of clothing products
This project considers particular protective garments that are commercially available – designed to reduce injury by impacts. Of primary interest are sportswear garments and PPE (Personal Protective Equipment). The project considers the technology of garment construction to provide protection, as well as making quantifiable measures of performance.
Sustainable Design Solutions for Reducing UK Clothing and Textile Waste
This project involves a PhD student undertaking interdisciplinary research from fashion design, sustainability, social economics, waste management and globalised production to assess the viability of garment upsizing as a route to reduce textile wastes. In recent years, the UK has been subject to an influx of low-cost fashion imports, with an intended short usable life. This influx has led to a culture of over-consumption, and to high levels of textile waste and pollution, directly at odds with the principles of sustainability. As a sustainable, design based waste solution, upcycled fashion production diverts waste from landfill and utilises it as a primary source material for new fashion products, with a higher retail value than traditionally recycled goods.
By using waste and recycling strategies to manufacture new products will reduce dependence on virgin materials, limiting harmful emissions and consumption of resources. This research analyses waste textile collection within the UK, in terms of sourcing, methods and processing, to enable the development of resources, relevant to upcycling business criteria. Value Stream Mapping is used in the study to graphically analyse and demonstrate how value is created as material passes through all processing stages.
The practical implications of this research include the development of an innovative, UK based sustainable design and production approach, which directly tackles the issue of textile waste and offers scope for further employment and training within the industry.
Economic implications include creating a circular economy for the UK fashion and textiles industry, in which waste textiles are cycled back to become source materials for new garments, providing maximum environmental benefit.
Developing a circular economy for textiles/apparel
The University is a partner in the RESYNTEX project, funded as part of the EU Horizon 2020 programme. The project is developing and demonstrating an efficient industrial symbiosis between textile waste producers/collectors and the chemical/biotechnological/pulp & paper/energy industry. It aims to provide a large scale cascading approach from textile waste recovery and sorting, followed by natural and synthetic fibres recovery and transformation into new feedstock (protein and cellulose from natural fibres, polyamide and polyester building blocks from synthetic fibres). The new circular economy concept includes the whole value chain of organisations (public authorities, collectors, recyclers, process designers, industrial transformers and users). RESYNTEX addresses the recycling rate issue through two combined aspects:
* provide new valorisation routes for textile waste (e.g. transformation into high value and more competitive feedstock for chemical industries);
* integrate the whole value chain, demonstrate a realistic circular economy example with a good business model adapted to new markets and convince citizens that their used clothes have a higher recycling value (with significant impact on the environment)
Further information is here: http://resyntex.eu/
Interest in functional apparel has led to on-going research to equip clothing with sensors and communication technologies. With others, we are seeking to promote cross-Faculty research with a view to producing proof-of-concept garments. This work is ongoing.
Further information is here: https://www2.mmu.ac.uk/amse/
McLoughlin, J., 2017. 'High-Performance Apparel Materials, Development and Applications', Woodhead Publishing Limited.
Sabir, T., Venkatraman, P., Jenkins, E., Trencher, L., Prendergast, J., Hayes, S., Brownbridge, K., Tyler, D., Ledbury, J., Gill, S., Chan, P., 2015. 'Materials and technology for sportswear and performance apparel', CRC.
Tyler, DJ., 2008. 'Carr and Latham's Technology of Clothing Manufacture', Wiley-Blackwell, Oxford.
Tyler, DJ., 1992. 'Materials Management in Clothing Production', Wiley-Blackwell.
Tyler, D., Han, S., 2019. 'Designing Products for the Circular Economy'. In Technology in Sustainable Product Development, Palgrave.
Brubacher, K., Apeagyei, P., Venkatraman, P., Tyler, D., Brownridge, A., 2018. 'Predicting Pressures Applied by Sports Compression Garments Using Virtual Fit Technology'. In Espinosa, HG., Rowlands, DR., Shepherd, J., Thiel, DV. (eds.) Proceedings, Volume 2, ISEA 2018 The 12th Conference of the International Sports Engineering Association, MDPI.
Tyler, DJ., 2017. 'High performance apparel for protection'. In McLoughlin, J., Sabir, T. (eds.) High-performance apparel: materials, developments and applications, Elsevier.
Han, SL-C., Henninger, CE., Apeagyei, P., Tyler, D., 2017. 'Determining Effective Sustainable Fashion Communication Strategies'. In Henninger, CE., Alevizou, PJ., Goworek, H., Ryding, D. (eds.) Sustainability in Fashion, pp. 127-149, Springer International Publishing.
Venkatraman, PD., Tyler, D., 2015. 'Impact Resistant Materials and their Potential'. In Materials and Technology for Sportswear and Performance Apparel, CRC Press, Taylor and Francis group.
Tyler, D., 2015. 'Application of Pressure Sensors in Monitoring Pressure'. In Materials and Technology for Sportswear and Performance Apparel, pp. 289-310, CRC Press.
Venkatraman, P., Tyler, D., 2015. 'Applications of Compression Sportswear'. In Materials and Technology for Sportswear and Performance Apparel, pp. 171-204, CRC Press.
Tyler, DJ., 2013. 'Joining of wearable electronic components'. In Joining Textiles, pp. 507-535, Elsevier.
Tyler, D., Mitchell, A., Gill, S., 2012. 'Recent advances in garment manufacturing technology: joining techniques, 3D body scanning and garment design'. In The Global Textile and Clothing Industry, pp. 131-170, Elsevier.
Tyler, DJ., 2011. 'Digital printing technology for textiles and apparel'. In Computer Technology for Textiles and Apparel, pp. 259-282.
Tyler, D., 2008. 'Advances in apparel product development'. In Advances in Apparel Production, pp. 157-177, Woodhead Publishing/Elsevier.
Humpston, G., Willis, P., Tyler, D., Han, SL-C., 2014. 'Technologies for sorting end of life textiles', WRAP.
Leal Filho, W., Ellams, D., Han, S., Tyler, D., Boiten, VJ., Paco, A., Moora, H., Balogun, A-L., 2019. 'A review of the socio-economic advantages of textile recycling', Journal of Cleaner Production, 218, pp. 10-20.
Han, SLC., Chan, PYL., Venkatraman, P., Apeagyei, P., Cassidy, T., Tyler, DJ., 2017. 'Standard vs. Upcycled Fashion Design and Production', Fashion Practice, 9 (1), pp. 69-94.
Tupikovskaja-Omovie, Z., Tyler, DJ., Hayes, S., Chandrasekara, 2015. 'Mobile App versus Website: A Comparative Eye-Tracking Case Study of Topshop', International Journal of Social, Behavioral, Educational, Economic, Business and Industrial Engineering, 9 (10), pp. 3251-3258.
Tyler, DJ., 2011. 'An insight into Maxwell's mind?', Nature, 472 (7341).
Tyler, DJ., 2008. 'The Changing Face of the Apparel Industry', Textiles, 35 (4), pp. 12-14.
Apeagyei, PR., Otieno, R., Tyler, D., 2007. 'Ethical practice and methodological considerations in researching body cathexis for fashion products', Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 11 (3), pp. 332-348.
Tyler, DJ., 2003. 'Will the real clothing industry please stand up!', Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 7 (3), pp. 231-234.
McLaren, R., Tyler, DJ., Jones, RM., 2002. 'Parade - Exploiting the strengths of "Made in Britain" supply chain', Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 6 (1), pp. 35-43.
Tyler, D., 2001. 'Cognitive mapping: a tool to support strategic management', Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 5 (4), pp. 353-357.
Tyler, DJ., 2000. 'Concurrent product development with design for the environment in the textile and clothing industry', International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 12 (6), pp. 68-69.
Spragg, JE., Fozzard, G., Tyler, DJ., 1999. 'FLEAS: A flowline environment for automated supervision', Integrated Manufacturing Systems, 10 (6), pp. 322-327.
Tyler, DJ., 1999. 'Concurrent product development with design for the environment in the textile and clothing industry', International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 11 (6), pp. 64-65.
Tyler, DJ., 1998. 'Concurrent product development with design for the environment in the textile and clothing industry', International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 10 (6), pp. 55-56.
Carter, I., Tyler, DJ., 1996. 'A comparison of operator performance behaviours in different clothing production systems', Journal of Clothing Technology & Management, 13 (1), pp. 110-129.
Lowe, TJ., Kalta, M., Wilson, G., Tyler, DJ., 1994. 'Analysis of machine breakdown and repair for team working in the clothing industry', Journal of Clothing Technology & Management, Summer, pp. 1-15.
Tyler, DJ., 1993. 'A review of applications of simulation to clothing manufacture', Journal of Clothing Technology and Management, 10(2), Summer.
Tyler, DJ., Toon, D., 1991. 'An industrial perspective on real-time management information systems', Hollings Apparel Industry Review, 8 (2), pp. 61-72.
Hall, NA., Tyler, D., 2018. 'Eco-System Services and the Circular Economy for Textiles', 91st Textile Institute World Conference: Integrating Design with Sustainable Technology, University of Leeds, 23/7/2018 - 26/4/2018.
Tupikovskaja-Omovie, Z., Tyler, DJ., 2018. 'Mobile consumer shopping journey in fashion retail: eye tracking mobile apps and websites.', the 2018 ACM Symposium, Warsaw, Poland, 14/6/2018 - 17/6/2018, in ETRA, pp. 89:1-89:1.
Brubacher, K., Apeagyei, P., Venkatraman, P., Tyler, D., 2017. 'Design of Sports Compression Garments: Exploring the Relationship Between Pressure Distribution and Body Dimensions', 8th Asia-Pacific Congress on Sports Technology, Tel Aviv, Israel, 15/10/2017 - 19/10/2017, in http://apcstcon.com/.
Hall, NA., Li-Chou Han, S., Apeagyei,, P., Tyler, D., 2016. 'Whole Systems Thinking for Circular Economy Design Practice', Circular Transitions Conference, Chelsea College of Arts & Tate Britain, London, 23/11/2016 - 24/11/2016, in http://www.circulardesign.org.uk.
Tyler, DJ., 2016. 'Impact Protection for Functional Apparel', 90th Textile Institute World Conference, Poznan, Poland, 25/4/2016 - 28/4/2016, in Proceedings of the 90th Textile Institute World Conference, 25-28 April 2016, Poznan, Poland., pp. 227-235.
Tyler, DJ., Humpston, G., Morley, M., 2015. 'Identification of fibre composition of apparel for recycling', Fiber Recycling Symposium, San Francisco, USA, 8/6/2015 - 10/6/2015.
Han, S., Tyler, D., Apeagyei, P., 2015. 'Upcycling as a Design Strategy for Product Lifetime Optimisation and Societal Change', PLATE Conference, Nottingham, UK.
Tupikovskaja-Omovie, Z., Tyler, D., Chandrasekara, S., Hayes, S., 2014. 'The role of mobile technologies on seamless shopping experience in apparel m-retail: A case study of Topshop', The 7th MMU Postgraduate Research Conference 2014 ‘Making an Impact with Research’, Manchester, UK, 4/11/2014, in https://e-space.mmu.ac.uk/556206/.
Tupikovskaja-Omovie, Z., Tyler, DJ., Hayes, S., Chandrasekara, 2014. 'Segmenting the UK Mobile Fashion Consumer', 2014 International Conference on Mobile Business, London, England, 4/6/2014 - 5/6/2014, pp. 1-12.
Tupikovskaja-Omovie, Z., Tyler, DJ., Chandrasekara, S., Hayes, S., 2014. 'Segmenting the UK Mobile Fashion Consumer.', in ICMB, pp. 2-2.
Venkatraman, PD., Tyler, D., Fergusson-Lee, L., Bourke, A., 2013. 'Performance of Compression Garments for Cyclists', at The Textile Institute’s International Conference on Advances in Functional Textiles, Manchester, U.K., 25/7/2013 - 26/7/2013, in ISBN: 978-0-9566419-4-6.
Tyler, DJ., Venkatraman, PD., 2012. 'Impact resistant materials and Design Principles for Sportswear', The 88th Textile Institute world conference, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, 16/5/2012 - 17/5/2012, in Proceedings of the 88th Textile Institute World Conference.
Venkatraman, P., Tyler, DJ., 2011. 'A critical review of impact resistant materials used in sportswear clothing', 7th International conference in Advances in Textiles, Machinery, Nonwovens and Technical Textiles, Coimbatore, India, 15/12/2011 - 17/12/2011, in 7th International conference in Advances in Textiles, Machinery, Nonwovens and Technical Textiles, 11.
Blanco-Velo, J., Lea-Greenwood, G., Power, J., Tyler, DJ., 2010. 'Ethical, eco, organic, green…what does it all mean?', 17th Eirass Conference on Retailing and Consumer Services, Istanbul, 7/7/2010 - 9/7/2010, in 17th Eirass Conference on Retailing and Consumer Services.
Spragg, JE., Fozzard, G., Tyler, DJ., 1997. 'Constraint-Based Reactive Rescheduling in a Stochastic Environment.', in ECP, 1348, pp. 403-413.
Manchester Fashion Institute
Manchester Metropolitan University
Manchester M15 6BG