James Tree BA (Hons) Fashion Design and Technology (Menswear)
ONE-PATTERN-PIECE
This collection has taken specific inspiration from form, utilising creative pattern cutting as a design tool. All garments have been engineered to be cut from ONE-PATTERN-PIECE resulting in unconventional seams and a unique fit due to not being cut traditionally and with consideration of grain lines. Twisting, pulling, pressing creases, and other physical fabric manipulations applied to the garments, post-construction, gives them a more desirable shape and texture layers.
Some garments are digitally printed on flax using a Trompe l’oeil effect to distort the humble fabrication’s texture, drape, finishings and details. This illusion is achieved via a curated placement print placed on each pattern piece. The prints consist of a collection of found objects and archival garment details, extracted through photographs and edited digitally.
Wool and other linen garments feature a Trompe l’oeil effect achieved through hand-stitching garment details on the blank fabric. This is complemented by jewellery, chains, and other details pins to the fabric.
A use of traditional hand-finishing methods are used for construction alongside fray edges, resulting in the archival and antique feel to the garment’s aesthetics, with safety and kilt pins additionally used to hold the garments together.
This project has a key theme and aesthetic of deconstruction and fragility, subtly reflecting design process and philosophy.